ZLATOUST Diver 193-ChS #17

By TLex Introducing the new ZLATOUST 193-ChS, the scaled down and slightly updated (if you will) version of the famous 191-ChS 'Vodolaz' DIVER. The legendary 191-ChS, which has become a rare and collectible item, was made in the Zlatoust Clock Factory in the 60s. It was worn exclusively by USSR Navy aquanauts, who wore the huge 60mm watch for operational use despite an application radioactive material on its hands and dial markers.



More recently, the 191-ChS was given a re-edition as the 192-ChS, which was produced minus the harmful radioactive material. However despite this the 192-ChS still remained an enormous 60mm in diameter, making it almost impossible for anyone to wear except perhaps Arnold Schwarzenegger (the man, who in many ways was responsible for bringing the watch into the limelight) or other herculean types.



This meant that despite its extraordinary heritage, the 'Vodolaz' dive watch could not easily be worn by enthusiasts and devotees; not until today that is. I had mentioned in my previous ChS-192 article a Russian Military watch expert, who collaborated with the AGAT Clock Factory to re-design a 53mm version of the watch, the ChS-193. This watch is now available (for the moment in limited supply).



Apart from its scaled down 53mm case size, a new more comfortable left-handed crown placement and an automatic Vostok 2415 movement, which replaces the original hand wound 2409, this is the same 700m fixed bezel dive watch that has been hand crafted in Russia. It has been made in the same manner that other 'Vodolaz' have been since the late 50s. It looks the same and feels the same. There are a couple of minor cosmetic enhancements, though; such as a new handset, an 'Agat' factory logo (12 o'clock) and 'RUSSIA' text (6 o'clock).



Currently I don't know of anyone, who has stock of these watches outside of Russia apart from the same Russian Military watch expert, who co-designed it with the AGAT factory, who I got both my 192-ChS and 193-ChS watches from. He has just 17 pieces of the new 53mm version available and 2 remaining 60mm watches. Interested parties should drop me an email if you would like to be put in touch with him . . .

















© OceanicTime

Rolex DEEP SEA 'UNKNOWN'

By TLex After witnessing Liam Neesan’s electrifying performance in the 2008 action thriller, 'TAKEN', I have to admit I was quite looking forward to watching his latest thriller, 'UNKNOWN'. Last night I finally got to watch it. Just 12 minutes or so into the movie, I caught sight of the lead played by LN, reach for his Rolex DEEP SEA from his hospital bedside . . .



There was a nice close-up of the caseback as LN lay in bed recollecting the moment when his fake (as later discovered) on screen wife played by January Jones had gifted him the watch.



LN 'She gave it to me as a gift, in Paris, for our honeymoon . . .'

LN 'It’s beautiful, just beautiful!'

JJ 'I'm glad you like it . . .

I was further surprised by a second scene that followed, where in an attempt to win her favor LN offered his DS to the beautiful Diane Kruger, who in her supporting role as a Bosnian illegal immigrant and Berlin Taxi driver had kindly fished poor ol’ LN out of the back of her sinking taxi, after it had ploughed off a bridge.



LN 'I want you to have this . . .'

DK 'What if I don't want it?'

LN 'It’s worth about 5'000euro. Feel the weight of it! Go on it's the real thing . . .'



DK then accepts the watch and slaps it on her wrist, but not before waving it LN's face . . .



The following DS scene showed the lovely DK wearing the watch as she sat and discussed her finances or lack of with LN . . .



LN 'Sell the watch, you'll get more than you need . . .'

DK 'I plan to . . .'

Much later on in the movie LN hands DK a wodge of cash, causing her to have a change of heart about flogging LN’s Deep Sea. She hands it back to him . . . good girl!



DK 'It’s too heavy for me . . .'



The DS sits on the table for moment as LN fumbles for DK's hand . . .



LN finally slaps the DEEP SEA back on his wrist . . . THE END

H2O Kalmar 'Under Extreme Pressure'

By TLex On Tuesday, June the 21st, 2011 in the German University town of Kiel, also a naval base and an important German harbor, in fact one of Germany's largest passenger ports. H2O Watches had a date with destiny and an appointment with Umwelt- und Meerestechnik Kiel GmbH (K.U.M.), a company specialized in the manufacture of deep sea instrumentation, specifically for the continuous development of Ocean-Bottom-Seismometer-Systems for the detection of subsea seismic movements or seaquakes.



The maritime location couldn't have been more apt for what was about to happen. And for what was possibly about to happen to the 3’000m Kalmar prototype, which was soon to be tested to a degree that only a very few dive watches have ever been tested to, let alone have survived to tell their tale!







Like the H2O Kalmar K.U.M.’s measuring instruments are also constructed from Grade 5 Titanium, a material chosen by both companies for its high resistance to pressure. G5 Titanium is more than four times more resistant to pressure compared to 316L stainless. These instruments are put to work in unarguably one the toughest environments that there are, and are tested to be able to perform up to 600 bar of pressure. That means they can be placed as deep as 6000 meters down.



Although the H2O Kalmar bears a 3’000m water-resistance on its dial, H2O Watches had designed the watch in such a way that it should exceed its water-resistance, they just weren’t sure by how far.







H2O’s Clemens Helberg: “We knew it would have to at the very least exceed its WR by 25% and possibly more, but we’re conservative German’s and wanted to be cautious so we felt that the Kalmar’s 3’000m depth rating, which is still quite exceptional for a mechanical dive watch would be more appropriate, but were we in for a surprise?!’’



Two H2O Kalmar prototypes were successfully tested by K.U.M. to 600 bar of pressure. There was absolutely no leakage or damage to either watch. In fact the machine used to test the watches maxed-out at 600bar, so the watches might even have been able to take more pressure. H2O Watches were fully prepared to complete the testing with two destroyed prototypes, but returned home with two perfectly intact watches and an independent test certificate that says the H2O Kalmar is water-resistant to 6000m!







Test certificate from K.U.M. Germany to say that the H2O Kalmar successfully past testing up to 600 bar of pressure . . .

TEMPEST Viking (prototype)

By TLex A couple of weeks ago I was fortunate enough up to meet up with Ben, the owner and founder of TEMPEST Watches. Ben, who comes from Toronto, Canada, but now lives in Hong Kong was in Taipei on watch business, it was also my birthday, so I invited Ben and the Viking along for some drinks and so was able to discuss at great length the watch and his plans for it and for the Tempest Watch Company.



What I learnt from the offset was that Ben is a fastidious young man, who takes his work very seriously, continually adjusting and correcting the very smallest details of his design. He has worked extremely hard getting the Viking to look just the way he wanted. The result, a design that is as detailed as it is clean and is as brutish as it is refined.



The next day I met with Ben again to look over some hand drawings for his next model (it's also gonna be hot!) and had the opportunity to take these shots of the Viking. I should reiterate that this is a prototype and as such is not yet quite perfect. One thing that the sharp-eyed of you might spot is that the '50' font on the bezel is upside down, this will of course be corrected along with a number of other minor issues that Ben was unhappy with, such as the crown guards, which will be slightly elongated and made to graduate into case side.



So what were my first impressions of the watch? Well, from first glance it wasn't hard to see, where some of the inspiration for the Viking had come from. There are certainly elements from the DEEP SEA in the case design, and of course from its glossy black ceramic bezel inlay, but also from details like all the lovely beveling on the case sides that seem to draw inspiration from the RM 028.



But it's the combination of these two looks as well as striking features such as the Viking's extra high cog-like bezel design or its unique doubled tiered crown. And details such as its HEV framed with double rings and the polished beveling on the case sides and the bracelet complete with hex-screws that make the Viking truly its own thing.



On the wrist the Viking felt great, not so much weight as to feel uncomfortable, but certainly enough to feel that you're wearing a substantial timepiece. The fit and finish (considering it was a prototype) was really excellent. The attention to detail? See for yourself! The DLC version was also gorgeous. There are no shots of the caseback or the bracelet clasp at the moment, because at this stage they were not yet finished, but the caseback will feature a cool Viking ship engraving and the clasp will possibly be a push-button type clasp with divers extender.



Now, TEMPEST Watches are just days away from the highly anticipated launch of their new website and the opening of pre-orders for the Viking. There's a cool countdown clock on their page indicating time left until launch; my last look showed it was just 8 days away!











© OceanicTime

ZLATOUST 192-ChS (vodolaz)

By TLex The Zlatoust 191-ChS Divers watches were produced in the late 1950s and 60s in the Zlatoust Clock Factory in Province of Chelyabinsk, Russia. They were supplied to almost every USSR Navy (ВМФ СССР) diver, who wore them as part of their diving equipment. Apart from their hands and markers, which were (at the time) applied with radioactive material these watches were highly visible to their wearers thanks to their enormous 60mm cases making them legible even through the small windows of the divers helmets.



These imposing looking watches, which are also referred to as 'Vodolaz' (the Russian terminology used for a diver who dives with heavy equipment, walking as an aquanaut does rather than swimming) were produced in the Zlatoust Clock Factory up until the mid-seventies, when production ceased. [For reference 'ныряльщик' the Russian word for 'diver' refers to divers using light equipment such as scuba divers or free divers using no equipment.]



The legendary Zlatoust 'Vodolaz' watches made a comeback after almost 40yrs of absence with a re-edition, the 192- ChS (featured here). Interest in the Zlatoust Divers watch dramatically increased, when one was spotted on the wrist of the former governor of the State of California, Arnold Schwarzenegger whilst making an address from his Governor’s office. There has been some debate as to the authenticity of many of these watches; as not all Zlatoust ‘Vodolaz’ watches are authentic!



However I can assure that the watch featured here (192- ChS) is the genuine article! And I have it on very good authority from an expert on Russian military watches and indeed Russian watches in general; a gentleman who I have just recently had the good fortune to become acquainted with and, who invited me to view a spectacular collection of Russian military divers at his distributorship in Taipei. One watch immediately caught my eye not least of all for its monstrous size, but also for its simplistic no-nonsense vintage military styling.



I was already somewhat familiar with the Zlatoust divers watches, but not to the extent that I have now become thanks to my new friend, who is also fully fluent in Russian and who regularly corresponds with, and was (at the time) collaborating with the Zlatoust Clock Factory on a new project of theirs (read on) . . . and so begun my education!



Many watches have laid claim to the heritage and pedigree of the legendary Zlatoust 'Vodolaz' watch, one of which includes a claim made by a well known American owned Swiss watch company, who claim to have in 1959 been commissioned to produce 100 or so watches for officers of the Russian Naval Fleet. Their popular 'Russian Divers' watch (current model) was designed; they say working from historical technical drawings of this diver. But as you will soon learn this design could not have been based on an authentic Zlatoust 'Vodolaz', but is most likely based on an interpretation of the original Zlatoust 'Vodolaz' of the types that can nowadays be acquired so easily on eBay or are more commonly seen in the souvenir shops of Moscow.

These watches are not fakes per se, least of all by definition, but they are not authentic items either even though pertaining to be. Neither are they built to the same exacting standards or specifications as the 191- ChS or its re-edition the 192- ChS are, and as such are inferior.



AUTHENTICITY So how can you tell which is which? For the most, unauthentic models can be distinguished from the real thing at glance because they are frequently fitted with protective steel grids over their glass crystals, something that the Zlatoust 191- ChS watches never possessed. Apart from 191-ChS' wooden ammunition box and paperwork, other distinguishing features should include: the absence of any text or markings on the dial (whatsoever); two fixings should be visible on the dial at 4 and 10 o’clock.



The only markings on the caseback should be that of the watch’s edition # (today an additional triangular '3 3' factory logo accompanies it). There should be no elaborate engravings or text on the caseback either. When removed the canteen crown protector should possess a second inner covering; and where the winding crown is and its rubber seal, the crown should be held in place by no less than three fixings.



The screwdown bezel of the 191-ChS, which to an extent is fixed can theoretically be removed (read on) to open the watch. However opening the case is not advised as the watch's water-resistance could well be affected; in fact such is the torque used by the Zlatoust factory to tighten the screwdown bezel, opening by hand is pretty much an impossibility. This is yet another distinguishing factor between those 'souvenirs' sold on the streets of Moscow from the actual Zlatoust divers 191-ChS / 192-ChS.



FIXED BEZELS I feel that it is particularly pertinent to this article to (do my best to) dispel the myth, that if a divers watch lacks a rotating bezel, whether that be in inner or outer, or indeed it is does not comply with ISO regulations or the such for a divers watch then it could not be considered a ‘true’ divers watch. Try telling this to a veteran USSR Military diver or indeed one of Incursori of the Italian Navy, who both dived exclusively throughout their military careers without the need of unidirectional rotational divers bezels.



Or try to argue this point with a seasoned commercial diver and they'll no doubt put you in your place. Most commercial divers that I know will tell you that a turning ring is not a necessity for them and was in fact developed with the recreational diver in mind. However fixed bezels are still beneficial, serving as strengtheners holding in place the watches glass or crystal and do much to achieve the minimalist look of these watches that I have grown to admire.



MEGA DIVERS The 60mm Zlatoust 191-ChS (now 192-ChS) Russian Divers Watch is one of the largest divers watches ever built, but not the largest. Other mega-sized dive watches include the PANERAI Egiziano AKA ‘The Egyptian’ that has a diameter of 60mm excluding its crown guard, its recent successor the titanium constructed PANERAI PAM00341 is also 60mm in diameter, the U-BOAT U-1942 with its gargantuan 64.4mm case (excluding winding crown) and the ENNEBI Titanic, which to my knowledge is the largest watch in existence with a mega 65mm diameter (excluding its crown guard).



Why on earth make these watches so big? I think the first observation to make is that these were not designed as, or in deeded ever intended to be used as everyday wristwatches, but as diving instruments with a specific purpose, deliberately designed to be as legible as possible under extreme conditions. Today they are first and foremost collector’s items. That is not to say (practicality aside) that they should not be worn.



ZLATOUST 192-ChS This is a re-edition of the legendary 191-ChS, which apart from its luminous material, which is now non-radioactive and an addition of logo on the caseback is pound for pound the same watch that was supplied to and used by the Soviet Naval divers of 60s and 70s. The watch measures 75x70x18mm (this includes the lug to lug length and takes into consideration its enormous canteen crown protector). The actual diameter of the case is 60mm. It has a 24mm lug width, the bars of which are fixed, not uncommon on a military diver.



The watch weighs 0.26kgs. The case, which has a hewn look as if it was almost chiseled with an axe, is constructed from stainless steel. The Zlatoust Clock Factory to my knowledge has written nothing to the actual water-resistance of the ChS-191 or 192 in any of their literature, but I am told that it is water-resistant to at least 700 meters or more.



Its movement, a 24mm hand wound Vostok 2409 with 17 jewels, shock protection and a minimum power reserve of 44hrs is accessible through the dial by means of a special key that goes into a hole beside the 3 o’clock marker. It should maintain a daily rate of accuracy of -24 to +40 seconds per day. The lume, which I should also add is exceptional is Russian made lume not Swiss and as previously mentioned is not radioactive. The watch has much character; it are its slight flaws and imperfections that give it its charm. The watch comes supplied on a hand cut rubber strap, which has been stapled rather than stitched; again it is this kind of no-nonsense styling that I find so charismatic.



Apart from being a fantastic collector's item the 192-ChS' sheer size will no doubt be of some concern even to those such as myself, who are wearing 50+mm watches. That is not to say that I won't sit at home with the Zlatoust 'Vodolaz' strapped to my wrist as I dream of deep sea adventures or that the watch is completely un-wearable. I think this will deepened on your level of passion for the watch and the kind of person you are. Nevertheless, I have some good news about a scaled down 53mm version of the diver that is soon to be released from the Zlatoust Clock Factory.



The new 53mm Zlatoust diver will house an automatic movement, will have a left-handed crown placement and will replace fixed bars with spring bars allowing for strap changes. The watch will have one last aesthetic enhancement, a small Zlatoust Clock Factory logo on its dial like the one at the bottom of the post. I am going to see this new version for myself this weekend and will be posting pictures and further details in the following days.


© OceanicTime

Please feel free to drop me a line if you are interested in either of the models discussed. I will be happy to pass your requests on to the only person I know, who is selling these watches. Please though, only genuinely interested parties should make contact. Please also kindly mark your email 'ZLATOUST'.