SCHOFIELD Signalman GMT PR

By TLex It's times like this, when watches (non dive watches that is) such as the Schofield Signalman come along that I wonder if I haven't limited myself somewhat in terms what I like to write about. It's true that the Signalman isn't a diver per se, but before you scroll down to the next story, take a look at what is in my opinion one of the nicest looking non-divers I've come across in a long while, and one that has a spec. that would put any number of actual divers models to shame.

Start up brand, Schofield was started by an Englishman with a passion for lighthouses. His debut model, the Signalman GMT PR has a nautical / mil vibe that will no doubt hit many of the right buttons with dive watch enthusiasts. It comes in either a DLC or mirror polish finished 44mm stainless steel case with a water-resistance 500m. Despite its chunky side profile the case thickness is in fact only 14mm. The large recessed crown has double gaskets. The screwdown caseback has been engraved with a lighthouse. The Sapphire crystal is domed with an anti-reflective coating on its inside.

The dial has dual levels; in many ways it resembles a divers inner rotational ring however it isn't. A cool font has been used for its applied numerals, which have been applied with Swiss C1 SuperLuminova. Other features of the dial include a GMT indicator and a power-reserve indicator at 12 o'clock. The movement, which is a Swiss made Soprod 9335 caliber is protected by an anti-magnetic movement holder. The watches are presented on 24mm sharkskin straps and are attached to the case via drilled lugs. A second half remborde military green canvas strap is also available.

Only 400 pieces of the Signalman GMT PR will be produced; 300 in steel and 100 in DLC. Pre-order prices start from £2'465. For further details click on the SCHOFIELD logo at the bottom of the post . . .

EXTático DIVER

By TLex The EXTático DIVER is a collaborative effort between the philosophical watch brand, EXTático, whose name symbolizes the detonation of time and the perception of movement, and micromechanics specialist, Moragas Technologie also of Spain, who are co-developing the DIVER with EXTático.



The first thing to say about this watch apart from the obvious amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into it; is that the EXTático DIVER has not just been developed in Spain, but a number of its key components such the case, crown, bezel and hands have all been made in Spain.



The design of the watch whilst robust and functional is quite unlike anything else I have come across. It is futuristic yet evokes a feeling of deep sea exploration. Perhaps a diver for exploring the oceans of a distant planet?! There’s an exaggerated buzz-saw bezel, a laterally positioned lug attachment system and a massive custom rubber divers strap.



The watch looks like it would be most at home on the wrist of a scuba diver and probably not suitable for dress attire, but I would hazard a guess that EXTático had always indented that this dive watch unlike many others would actually fulfill its destiny as a diver, which would explain why the EXTático DIVER complies NIHS Swiss watch industry norms for divers watch.



Specifications include: a 316L Stainless steel case, a 120-click unidirectional rotational divers bezel, a water-resistance of 400m or 40ATM, a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating (both sides), SuperLuminova applied hands and markers, a Swiss polished and engraved screwdown caseback, dual locking screwdown crown, a choice of two Swiss made mechanical movements; the ETA 2824 or an ESQUEMA ST 21 based caliber and a choice of two dials, a conventional printed dial or a specialized sintered dial.



For those of you, who recognize the design from the RLJ Forum's S80 project, this design is now fully owned by EXTático, who have no affiliation with the RLJ Forum. The watches are available to order direct from EXTático priced at 550€ for the ESQUEM and 660€ for the 2824. For further details on the watch and ordering information please contact EXTático directly. I will be posting some prototype images shortly, stay tuned for lots more . . .

AQUADIVE Rebirth of a DiveWatch

By TLex The name AQUADIVE was a name that was once renowned by divers the world over. During the 60s and 70s Aquadive professional dive watches were consider to be among the toughest and most reliable dive watches on the market. They were designed to endure the extreme conditions that professional divers subjected them to, but were also appreciated for their beautiful designs that used cases and components that were handcrafted according Swiss watchmaking traditions. Today vintage Aqudive models are highly sought after by collectors . . .



REBIRTH After several decades of absence and some years of planning the AQUADIVE name is back with a new line-up of watches that pay tribute to the great dive watches of the past, while remaining true to their origins. I am a little too young to remember, when Aquadive were around, but know the name and its importance in modern dive watch history; it's really wonderful to see yet another great name return. The SQUALE brand and Isofrane brand of the same era have also recently seen a renaissance.



VINTAGE-MODERN What really blows me away about this rebirth is that the watches have been well and truly dragged into the 21st Century, and not necessarily kicking and screaming either. Aquadive have used tough modern materials like DLC coatings and ceramic, they have innovated, such as the ingenious relocation of the ubiquitous HEV to between the lugs, and have managed to increase performance with 1000 and 3000 meter depth-ratings. All this whilst remaining authentic; in other words the watches haven't lost their soul!



NEW MODELS The first series of watches, to be introduced in 2012 will be partially made using genuine Aquadive NOS [new old stock] components. The NOS vintage diver case and crystal are Aquadive NOS. Its movement and all gaskets are new Swiss made. The Bathyscaphe 300 is CNC machined off new old stock Swiss Made stainless steel blanks. As well as these a third model, the Bathyscphe 100 DLC is also in the works . . .



BATHYSCAPHE 100 DLC Aquadive set out to create a new classic, and protected it using a high tech scratch-free DLC coating applied in Switzerland, and a state of the art scratch-free Ceramic bezel insert. A sports watch that looks ready to tackle any situation you might want to throw at it. While it looks straight out of the 60s, it's a thoroughly modern dive watch with a depth rating of 1000 meters.



BATHYSCAPHE 300 This modern classic takes design elements from Aquadive Divers of the 70s and updates them for today's divers and dive watch enthusiast; as a result, and due to the massive construction, depth rating of 3000 meters / 10000 feet are achieved. It features a unique movement suspension system that isolates the movement from the case in a soft iron cage that also acts as an anti-magnetic and anti shock protection system. The Bathyscaphe 300 has a built in automatic HRV (Helium Release Valve) for added safety in extreme diving conditions.



NOS DIVER Aquadive have in their possession a very limited number of new old stock pieces of this classic 60s diver. A piece of dive watch history, a piece of Aquadive; This genuine NOS (New Old Stock) Aquadive has a Swiss hand made case equipped with a bidirectional rotating bezel and a classic aluminum insert.

The cases were found fully assembled with a heslite domed crystal in the old Aquadive inventory. They have been carefully re-assembled by hand using all new gaskets. This watch has a depth rating of 660ft, and is equipped with a new Aquadive dial with applied SuperLuminova markers. It is operated by a new Swiss Made ETA 2824-2, 25 jewel movement replacing the original movement in order to guarantee performance for years to come.

MORE For further details, pricing and specifications, please follow the AQUADIVE logo below, where you'll be taken to the wonderful new Aquadive website . . . to join in the discussion please click HERE for the official Aquadive Forum . . .

TOURBY Lawless DIVER

By TLex Introducing the new TOURBY Lawless DIVER. Its stainless steel case measures 45.5mm x 16mm. It has a water-resistance of 500m and is available in either a stainless steel or black PVD finish. There are two bezel types; one with an elapsed dive time scale in 5 minute increments and one with a 12 hour marker only.



The bezel has some good height to it and the downwardly curving lug horns should make it a comfortable wear on the wrist. The caseback features a fairly ornate engraving, which depicts Neptune, the Roman god of the sea on his chariot, trident in hand and being pulled through the waves by his horse. An inscription above reads ‘Imperium Neptuni Regis’. The watch is also fitted with a domed sapphire crystal.



The Lawless DIVER will house an ETA 2824-2, but with an option to upgrade to a Top Grade 2824-2 chronometer adjusted to 5 positions for an additional 359€ / 300€ (ex VAT). Further options include: 5X dials with differing markers, which includes the one shown plus a further 4 dials below (the one with the Arabic numerals is uncertain). There will be 4X strap (custom TOURBY rubber, leather, mesh or NATO), 2X buckle (standard or divers deployment). In the first run of watches only black dials will be offered with MOP, sterling silver and vintage brown a later possibility.



The Lawless DIVER's estimated list price will be 899 € inc. 19% German VAT (net price 755€ for all international customers outside of Europe. The first prototypes are already fabricated (see post below). Pre-orders will start in January 2012 with an estimated delivery in March 2012. A total of 600 pieces of the Lawless DIVER will be made: 500x stainless steel and 100x PVD. To put your name on the reservation list, please email TOURBY Watches . Stay tuned for more soon.

CREPAS 'TEKTITE' [a tribute to an odyssey]

By TLex OceanicTime is proud to present to you CREPAS Watches' 2nd outing, the TEKTITE. CREPAS Watches, who have brought us three models to date; Le Grand, El Buzo 'The Diver' and the TC1 from their Military Division, t.a.c.t.i.c.o, say that although the TEKTITE is their third release, it had always been planned as their first model. However they had wanted to gain some manufacturing experience before embarking on their true calling . . .



TEKTITE The name 'Tektite' is taken from the 'Tektite Missions' of the late 60s and early 70s. Tektite I, which took place on February 15th, 1969, saw four US Department of the Interior scientists; Conrad Mahnken, Ed Clifton, John VanDerwalker and Richard Waller descended to the ocean floor in Great Lameshur Bay in the US Virgin Islands to embark on an epic underwater project that would see the four aquanauts establish a new SAT diving world record.



On April 15th of that year after 58 days underwater and armed with as many days of scientific data the team returned to the surface. They spent more than 19 hours in decompression. The Tektite II missions were carried out similarly in 1970. These underwater pursuits comprised of ten missions, which each lasted 10-20 days with four scientists and an engineer. The name TEKTITE is a fitting tribute to their odyssey . . .



INSPIRED The TEKTITE watch is inspired by the CERTINA DS2 500m, a favorite of CREPAS Watches' engineers, and what is in their opinion probably one of if not the best dive watches made in the second half of the 60s. In those days, the DS2 was actually more expensive to buy than the Omega Seamaster 300 or even a Rolex Submariner and was quite unique from its contemporaries.



MODERN INTERPRETATION CREPAS Watches have done the same with the TEKTITE as they did with Le Grand; thinking about how the watch would be if it had been created nowadays. They have kept the crystal retainer ring, which allows a self blocking bezel and they have retained the original case shape. However the sides of the case have been beautifully beveled, which helps to give the watch a more organic and elegant feel. They have used a 5mm thick sapphire crystal with AR coating on both sides and a 4.5mm thick screwdown case back. There is also an anti-magnetic movement housing to protect the caliber.



The vintage styled dial is a comprised of two pieces; the bottom part in a modern black ceramic and the top part with its orange framed square markers. Text on the dial has been kept to a minimum to maintain a clean look: So only necessary text such as: CREPAS, TEKTITE and 1200M has remained.



CREPAS have used high quality materials and components for the TEKTITE. Its movement is a Swiss made ETA 2824-2 TOP grade, all bezels come with sapphire crystals inlays, the AR coating is on both sides, the movement is completely protected from magnetic fields (there is also a 2nd soft iron disc under the dial), it has a partly ceramic dial, an automatic HEV, a custom rubber strap and a mesh bracelet with divers clasp. The TEKTITE will be a Limited Edition of just 199 examples.



We can expect to see the first TEKTITE prototype ready on or around the end of November with an expected delivery time in May 2012.



DIMENSIONS
- Diameter of the bezel: 45,00mm
- Diameter of the case: 45,00mm
- Thickness: 17,90mm
- Length: 51mm
- Thickness of the crystal: 5,00mm
- Diameter of the crystal: 30,00mm
- Space between lugs: 22mm
- Diameter of the crown: 7,50mm
- Thickness of the bezel: 3,50mm
- Thickness of the case back cover: 4,50mm



MATERIALS
- Case, bezel, crown, case cover 316L stainless steel
- Brushed and polished finished
- Crystal and bezel inlay made of sapphire crystal
- Gaskets made of Viton and Tefzel
- Bottom of dial in ceramic
- Nylon strap
- Rubber strap
- Stainless Steel mesh bracelet
- Hands, dial and bezel with C3 SuperLuminova



FEATURES
- Swiss ETASA 2824 TOP grade
- Water-resistance 120 atmos / 1’200 meters / 4’000 feet
- Screw down crown and caseback
- Antimagnetic: 70’000A/m
- AR coated anti-scratch sapphire crystal
- Screwed bars
- Auto blocking 120 positions bezel
- Automatic helium escape valve (9 o’clock)



PRICING
Price during manufacturing period, 670€ plus 18% Spanish VAT (Sales outside EU are without Spanish VAT)

Shipping cost to EU 40€, outside EU 60€

Price after manufacturing period, 839€ plus 18% Spanish VAT (Sales outside EU are without Spanish VAT)

Shipping cost to EU 40€, outside EU 60€

You can make your reservation by emailing CREPAS Watches

GUY DAVID Diver

By TLex Many thanks to the reader in the Holland, who unearthed this interesting little diver. The GUY DAVID Diver sports a large 47mm stainless steel case and a water-resistance of 200 meters. At first glance it looks quite ordinary, but in fact it has quite a nice vintage inspired case with a cool side profile; I couldn’t tell you exactly where the inspiration came from, though. The case is given a touch of utility with large hex-key lug screws and pronounced coin edge bezel teeth.



There’s even a Seamaster style manual Helium escape valve. The crown, which is sans guard, gives it a vintage-mil vibe, which is furthered by its Mil-Sub dial layout and swords hands. The black bezel insert has large Arabic markers; I have to say I find them a little too much on this watch, they kind of spoil it for me. I’m not too crazy about the Cyclops either, and I’m afraid to say its mineral crystal all the way.



Beating away under the hood is a Japanese mechanical, a Miyota caliber; I would guess the 8215, but it could be the new 9015. Either way you can’t go far wrong. I have no idea, who Guy David is, most likely some fictitious character. I don't find myself reaching for the credit card, but that's not to say the watch is without merit; I like the case, the hex-key screws and its bezel, but it's ultimately let down by its lack of sapphire crystal.



The GUY DAVID Diver sells for 200€ and is available online from AC Watch Co. who carry the complete line of Guy David mechanical wristwatches.

MATWATCHES Divers Collection

By TLex With 20 years experience in the manufacture of mechanical watches, French watchmaker, MATWATCHES are specialized in the development of technical watches for use in the military, where their timepieces are constantly tested under the most extreme conditions.



Their timepieces are worn by elite groups of the military and police. With a list more than ten strong of specialized platoons and units, a veritable who's who of the French Special Forces, MATWATCHES have produce special edition timepieces for likes of . . .



Le 'COS' Commandement des Opérations Spéciales, ECTLO 'Commando Jaubert' Escouade de Contre Terrorisme et de Libération d'otages, 'ERS' Equipe Régionale d'Intervention et de Sécurité, 'SPHP' Le service de protection des hautes personnalités, 'RAID' Recherche Assistance Intervention Dissuasion and even le Groupe de sécurité de la présidence de la République, the security team that look after the safety of the French President.



MATWATCHES manufacture their watches in accordance to Swiss watch making traditions; providing performance and reliability, their watches are equipped with the high quality components and are built to serve Frances most elite forces. These watches are now accessible to the general public and as part of this new chapter in MAT’s history they are now launching with a new range of divers models.



MAT, which is an abbreviation of MER AIR TERRE (sea air land) have line of watches that includes three collections: Aviation, Commandos and their latest collection, Plongée (Diver), which is currently still in production. If I had to liken the new diver collection to anything, it would be a kind of cross between Bell & Ross and Breitling with a splash of SINN, although they really are their own thing.



The new collection divers, which are characterized by their matt black cases and orange bezel pips are based on the same 44mm x 15.5mm (16.5mm chrono) PVD coated 316L stainless steel case design with a total 8 versions, of which 4 are three handed automatics with ETA 2824-2 cals and 4 are chronographs with Valjoux 7750 cals.



The basic designs of the watches are the same; however MATWATCHES have a total of 5 different dial layouts with various dial markers and bezel markings. They even have options for left handers. The watch cases have a water-resistance of 300m (200m chrono) and are fitted with 2.8mm thick anti-reflective coated sapphire crystals.



MODELS (from top to bottom): AG5-1 auto with SL bezel markings, AG6-1 auto without SL bezel markings, AG6-2 auto (no date) with Arabic numerals and SL bezel markings, AG5-CH chrono with sub-seconds and SL bezel markings, AG6-CH chrono with sub seconds and without SL bezel markings, AG6-CHB chrono without SL bezel markings, AG5-CHL left handed chrono with SL bezel markings, AG5-CHL prototype left handed chrono with SL bezel markings, AG6-3 auto with mix of professional markers and Arabic numerals and without SL bezel markers.



PRICES range from 950€ (auto) to 1'800€ (chrono). I already have photos of the actual watches, which look superb and will be revealing them here shortly along with some words from MATWATCHES. For further details of the new diver collection and other MATWATCHES military timepieces please follow the link below . . .

UPDATE Pricing for 3 hands automatics such as; AG5-1, AG5-2, AG6-1 and AG6-3 is 950€ (inc. 19.6% French taxes).This price is includes 3 straps; 1X Italian made natural rubber strap, 1X tactical nylon strap, 1X MAT calfskin leather strap and a tool for strap changes. The watches ship from Paris, France by secure Speedpost - extra shipping fare 70€