ORIS Divers Mid Size DIAMONDS 'The Seas of Time'

By TLex Here's a decent little diver for the ladies, and not just some pseudo fashion diver either. The ORIS Divers Mid Size is a well proportioned ladies divers watch, which is robust enough to meet the demands of even the most advanced diver if indeed called upon to do so. It is the result of extensive research and collaborative thinking that has resulted in a watch that is both functional and fashionable.



Its 36mm stainless steel case with screw down crown and crown protection complete with the 3-leg-screws (that are characteristic of the new Oris Divers Series) has a water-resistance of 300 meters. It features a unidirectional divers bezel with white ceramic top ring with 60 minutes scale and a white polished dial with 12 applied diamonds (0.108 carat 8/8 cut, Si). It is fitted with an automatic mechanical movement SW 200-1, with red Oris rotor.

Bell & Ross BR02 (phantom and steel)

By TLex Bell & Ross have done very little with their diver over the past few years. The BR02 was released back in 2007, then in 2008 a chronograph version was presented; the following year saw the Limited Edition BR02 'Blue' and BR02 'Orange'. For 2011 they have given the BR02 a bit of a face lift and have released two new variants of the it.



For those that know the BR02 the first and most noticeable change comes from a new handset; they have replaced its sword hand set (typically with its orange minute hand) for a more elegant looking set of hands. The BR02 STEEL with a carbon fiber dial and the BR02 PHANTOM with stealthy black SuperLuminova applied hands and markers on a black ‘Clous De Paris’ dial.



Cosmetic changes aside these new versions are as their predecessors with 44mm Stainless Steel cases water-resistant to 1’000m; the Steel version with a brushed finish and the PHANTOM finished in black PVD. Both versions now with black lateral automatic HEVs, which can be seen at 9 o’clock. On the standard models the HEVs are colored orange to match their orange minute hands. Other features include; AR coated sapphire crystals and Swiss automatic movements, the ETA caliber 2892 with 25 jewels, beating at 28,800 vph with a power reserve of 42 hours.

ANONIMO Professionale C.N.S.

From ANONIMO When working at great depth, the most important information for the safety of the divers is that about the minutes spent outside the hyperbaric chamber. Dedicated to the Professionals of CNS, Cooperativa Nazionale Sommozzatori (C.N.S.), one of the world’s largest professional diver companies, the new Professionale CNS has been redesigned for the comfort of the divers. The new watch is the perfect example of a design collaboration of watch specialist Anonimo with the professionals who will use it.



Produced in a limited edition series of 50 numbered watches for 2011, the watch with oversized case has a redesigned dial to increase the readability of the scale of minutes. Large Arabic numerals make the new dial very easy to check the flow of time. The crown has been rotated 180 degrees, in an even more protected position. It remains an impressive 2000 meters waterproof, or 200 atmosphere pressure resistant.

The Anonimo PROFESSIONALE series was introduced in 2003. It was created based on extensive research and input by C.N.S. professionals involved in extreme underwater conditions. These watches are conceived and engineered TOGETHER WITH, not FOR the professional people that will wear them. Before starting this project, we listened humbly to the professionals. During the design process, we had a continuous exchange of ideas.



Cooperation between the brand Anonimo and CNS began with the Model 6000 Professionale, with an innovative approach to the needs of professional divers:

1° expeditionary teams on mother ship, without the common possibilities of maintenance and after-sales services to the watch.
2° long permanence in hyperbaric chambers.
3° multiple dives up to depth commonly around 400 meters.
4° aggressive submarine environments for the presence of equipments, tools, the most various liquids. (hydrocarbon, solvent..).

These data defined a series of features for the creation of a real professional watch and brought Anonimo to a radical change of perspective.



These features are:
The extreme strength to pressure ratio of the watchcase (structural Calculus of water-resistance with safety margin about 3/5 times the standard value of diving, 400 meters)

The waterproof U-Lock system, which will not put torsion on the O-Rings and which is easily repairable in emergency conditions. This can be done without the use of specific keys and will lower the risk of loosing parts of the watch.

A very good readability in the darkness as well as in low light.

The automation of the helium expulsion valve to avoid mistakes due to the user stress.

Starting from the base of these features, Anonimo created the first PROFESSIONALE, with an oversized watch case (43,4 mm), automatic movement, tested, reliable, ergonomically finished and with a specific locking system of the watch case, unusual in the world of watch making, but similar to the sailing system used by CNS for their equipment.



The U-Lock system works only by the compression of the O-Rings, without any torsion, through external female thread bars, with great dimension Torx screws that are easily accessible and replaceable, as well as the bars themselves, if they are damaged or even if a professional user should change an O-Ring. With a traditional locking system bezel/back cover, this is almost impossible, while in this case bezel and back cover are hinged at 9 hours and they cannot accidentally come off when the watch is open for repair.

For the same reasons screws and bars allow the watch to open without being totally removed but only released: you need only to first remove the strap. The crown, which has a comfortable hold, compresses the internal gaskets with a lower torsion compared to the common screw-locked crowns and it warns the user with a warning red signal when it is not correctly closed.



MOVEMENT Automatic, caliber Anonimo 01.0 on base SELLITA SW200-1 with rotor manufactured upon Anonimo specifications; 26 jewels, colimaçon finish, adjusted 4 positions, 28.800 A/h. Power reserve about 40 hours.

FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, central seconds; date window.

CASES Sand-blasted AISI316 Plus stainless steel, diameter 45.00 mm, satinated bezel and back cover. The locking system of the bezel and back cover works with external female thread bars, easily replaceable and connected to the back cover, and rotation hinges at h. 9.Great dimensions crown, comfortable hold, with innovative locking system in protected position at h. 10 and warning red signal.Automatic helium expulsion valve.

GLASS Extra thick domed sapphire crystal

WATER-Resistance200 ATM

DIAL Great dimensions and extra thick dial, hour indexes treated with luminous coating for superior day/night readability. Luminous coating treated baton hands and thread central seconds hand. Date window at h. 4.

STRAP Waterproof, rubber injected strap. Anonimo engraved on reverse of stainless steel buckle.

MSRP 6'000 €

ANONIMO Marlin Bronze

From ANONIMO Looking for a very special collector’s item? Anonimo has golden advice for you. Or, rather, “bronze” advice, as the Italian brand of watches is offering a model out of the ordinary: the Marlin Bronze, a diving watch, 1500 meters waterproof (150 atmosphere pressure resistant) in a bronze case which will be sold in limited series of 300 numbered watches ! (per dial color)



With the Marlin, Anonimo launches once again a limited edition model that will delight those who appreciate a hand made mechanical watch. True to the tradition of the Florentine watchmakers, Anonimo pays great attention to the details. The robust bronze case is the most striking aesthetic element of this watch, combining design, know-how and great comfort. The central case and the back cover are made of one piece. The material used to manufacture them is also an unusual one, as Anonimo, in fact, did not use ordinary bronze, but marine bronze. This copper, iron, aluminium and nickel alloy, also known as aluminum bronze, is usually found in the nautical sector (e.g. ship propellers) and in the Navy (e.g. torpedo elements).

Resistant both to corrosion and oxidation, the watch can be used in the most extreme conditions. Besides its functional side, the naval bronze used by Anonimo will also give the Marlin a unique look. Over time, due to the personal usage to which it is exposed, the watch will gain a darker and warmer color, it will “age”.To emphasize the warm and elegant character of this model, the new dial colors for 2011 are a rich brown and deep green.

This watch has an elegance which catches the attention even in the most formal situations. At the same time, Anonimo remains true to its military origins and its dynamic character. Each watch is numbered on the back of the case, which is also engraved with the image of a marlin, the legendary swordfish that gave the name to this diving watch. The calfskin wrist strap, especially processed by our patented Kodiak treatment to resist seawater, gives a final touch of class and elegance. With this watch, Anonimo, the Florentine brand of luxury watches, honors its legacy while looking resolutely to the future.

Despite its youth, Anonimo carries with it the rich history of Florentine watch making and the long tradition of handmade watch cases. Founded in 1997, Anonimo is in the same time a jewel of the Italian luxury goods industry and a workshop specialized since 1939 in manufacturing handcrafted cases for watches intended mainly for the Italian Navy. Each year Anonimo issues only a limited number of watches.








MOVEMENT Automatic, caliber Anonimo 01.0 on base SELLITA SW200-1 with rotor manufactured upon Anonimo specifications; 26 jewels, colimaçon finish, adjusted 4 positions, 28.800 A/h. Power reserve about 40 hours.

FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, central seconds; date window.

CASE Sand-blasted and satinated special bronze alloy.Dimensions: maximum length mm 55.50, nominal diameter mm 46.50, maximum thickness mm 15.50; wrist strap 24.00/20.00 mm.

Monobloc construction in which a sole element works as central part of the case (carrure) and back cover, closed by one bezel on the upper side.

BEZEL closing is ensured by five external stainless steel Thorx screws.

Great dimension screw locked stainless steel crown at h. 4 for comfortable hold. Automatic helium expulsion valve at h. 10 to be used in pressurized hyperbaric chambers in overpressure conditions.

GLASS Extra thick domed sapphire crystal.

WATER-Resistance150 ATM

DIAL Oversized and extra thick dial with hours indexes treated with luminous coating for superior day/night readability. Hands treated with luminous coating. Date window.

STRAP Manufactured in washable “Opera Kodiak” leather, water-resistant. Exclusive Anonimo stainless steel buckle or stainless steel folding clasp with security push button. Wrist strap is provided with hexagon-headed security screws and one lower screw with shaped head. This last screw allow the access for the release of the winding stem; a specific tool is required to unscrew it.

MSRP 5.500 €

NIVREL Deep Ocean (new)

By TLex Whilst at the Basel fair I met with the lovely people from NIVREL, who were good enough to show me their latest divers model, the Deep Ocean. The new divers model comes shortly after an announcement made last year, that the production of their popular Deep Sea diver will be discontinued. Those of you who know the brand and their range of divers will have also been familiar with the Red Sea and South Sea. Some might have even had an encounter with NIVREL Shark Sea 3000m tourbillon, which incidentally I also got to have a look at.

NIVREL's Deep Ocean comes with the motto 'From the Sea to the Ocean'. Its unpretentious design might not be particularly groundbreaking or remarkable, but if fairness I don't think it's meant to. It is what is, a very nicely made German diver that comes with a very reasonable price tag. Stay tuned for further details on the new Deep Ocean . . .

U-BOAT Classico U-1001 47

By TLex This year's version of the U-BOAT Classico U-1001 is now available with both a new case material and a new case size. Stainless steel has been chosen over Grade 2 Titanium and the watch now measures a modest 47mm rather than 55mm. Its '1001' moniker denotes not only its 1001m depth rating, a tribute to Italo Fontana's passion for diving, but also its production run of 1001 pieces of each color that the watch comes in, that being either blue or orange.









MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized at U-BOAT specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock. Height 4,60mm, jewels 25. Power reserve 40 hours.

FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 4 o’clock. Frequency 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz.

CASE In steel. Distinguishing crown on left side, with a special protective device (protected as a Trade Mark) and helium escape valve, serial number engraved on a steel plate, set on the left hand side of the case. Diameter 47 mm.

BACK Screwed in, limited edition 1001 units, serial numbering engraved in basrelief. Rotor with Cotes de Geneve decoration.

DIAL The dial of this model is made up of two superimposed dials: one treated with superluminova and coloured pigments added (orange or blue) and the other one cut, treated with composed opaque black pigments. Arabic numerals, superluminova luminous hands. 1001 writing in high relief.

CRYSTAL High quality sapphire, scratchproof, 4,5 mm thick.

WATER-RESISTANCE 1001 metres - 100 ATM.

STRAP Black, rubber (hypoallergenic) with plate in steel, deployante buckle. Width 23/22 mm. Fastened to the case with screws.

U-BOAT U-42 Chrono 53mm & 47mm

By TLex The U-BOAT U-1942 and the U-42 were, say U-BOAT based on a watch developed by Italo Fontana's grandfather for the Italian Navy, although for my knowledge no one has ever seen this watch; I wonder if a prototype was ever made and if so, why we haven't seen it? I digress! At Baselworld 2010 U-BOAT unveiled the U-42, which was in fact based on a scaled down 53mm version of the U-1942 itself with a monstrous 63mm case size (excluding its periscopic crown mechanism).



One year on and U-BOAT introduce a new chronograph version of the watch with the same 53mm case with an accompanying 47mm version that U-BOAT say they made with their female customers in mind. Both version of the U-42 Chrono are fitted with Valjoux 7750 calibers, are available with black dials and in limited editions of 999 pieces of each size.






MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical chronograph modified and personalized at U-BOAT specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock. Frequency 28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz. Power reserve 44 hours. 25 Jewels. Height 7mm.

FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, chronograph, counter small seconds at 3, counter 12 at 12, counter minutes at 6. Date window at 9 o’clock.

CASE Back case fixed on case with 6 encapsulated hexagon screws. Watertight on axis reset and assured charge by PTFE gasket. Bi-directional rotating bezel lockable with a lever on the right side of the case. Fixing of revolving bezel by 3 screws encapsulated in the back case; the bezel removal, for maintenance and washing obtained by removing the three screws, does not affect the watch watertight.

STRAP Brown leather handcrafted, width 23/23, and fitted with a titanium tongue buckle. For the 53mm version, strap with plate in titanium with tag for personalization.

OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean Chrono Cal.9300/9301

By TLex OMEGA extends the Planet Ocean family with the new Planet Ocean Chronograph Calibre 9300/9301. As with all Planet Ocean models the new PO Chronos are equipped with unidirectional rotatable divers bezels and helium escape valves. Their 45.5mm cases have a water-resistance of 60 bar or 600 meters. From the exterior the new chronos boast some attractive new styling details; there's choice of either a matte black ceramic or orange matte aluminum bezel insert and a fantastic new set of mini-plongeur hands for the chronograph's 3 o'clock sub-dial.




However its under the hood where the real action is taking place with the inclusion of an exclusive OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301 in-house movement, which combines the Co-Axial escapement and free sprungbalance for a level of reliability that has allowed Omega to offer a 4-year warranty. It is also the first in Omega's family of in-house movements to incorporate a chronograph function. The performance of this extraordinary movement can be observed through its sapphire crystal exhibition caseback.

STORM 'BLACK' Aquatron

By TLex London fashion brand STORM presented their first ever divers model from their BLACK collection, the Aquatron (cool name) at Baselworld this year. Storm, who are probably better known for their stylish fashion accessories and edgy fashion watches have created what looks to be a pretty descent first attempt. Whilst the overall look of the Aquatron might not offer anything particularly groundbreaking, it does have a certain something and like many of STORM's other timepieces is sleek and minimalist. It is quite reminiscent of something, can’t quite put my finger on it though. Maybe one of the German Military watches such as the Kampfschwimmer?

The Aquartron's case has a titanium construction and is water-resistant to 1’000m. It houses a Swiss quartz movement. Other features included a sapphire crystal and highly durable black Kevlar strap. MSRP is £259.99 / circa 425USD.

BALL Watch Co. ENGINEER Hydrocarbon Ceramic XV

From BALL Watch Co. Presenting the Engineer Hydrocarbon Ceramic XV, an astonishing timepiece that displays a perfect calibration of time within an environment that blends aesthetic design and sophisticated technology.

BALL latest timepiece is designed to master extreme situations of any kind. Rugged and reliable, the new EH Ceramic XV is a merge of power, innovation, aesthetic elegance and shows the continuous developments BALL Watch Company carries out in materials, functions and design.



To start, on the dial finely honed, details show the complexity of workmanship that has gone into every element of this timepiece. The grooved hour track is complemented by elegantly faceted steel hour markers and a “réhaut” displays the minutes. First worldwide and under BALL patent, the metallic Arabic and hour indexes are completed with the 3H Swiss technology. BALL self powered micro gas tubes give an outstanding legibility, even in the absolute darkness. Each of the 31 gas tubes have been manually set by expert hands.

With his ergonomically redesigned case of 42mm for a slimmer height of 13.25mm, the Engineer Hydrocarbon Ceramic XV now provides improved supreme comfort of wearing. The combination of polished and brushed stainless steel gives to the watch, in all its understated beauty, a very elegant touch.



Also new for BALL Watch, the extremely hard pure ceramic unidirectional bezel which gives to this model exceptional anti-corrosive properties. The black-chrome ceramic remains unaffected by ultraviolet rays and is virtually scratch-proof. The result is a new level of quality appearance and durability for the bezel. Further, and again first worldwide on a ceramic bezel, the graduation from 0 to 14, along with the digits 15, 30 and 45, have all a powerful luminescent paint treatment emitting a blue glow.

The crowning technical touch in this watch is its chronometer-certified ETA 2892 movement, with date calendar, delivering extreme precision. The watch is water-resistant up to 333 meters, shock resistant and even magnetic fields up to 4,800 A/m leave the mechanism unmoved.

As final tribute, the case back features an engraved representation of Jim Whittaker, first American to summit Mount Everest. This model has as well inherited the number “XV”, from the first name the Great Trigonometric Survey of British India gave to the Everest in 1856 , then known as Peak XV.

BREITLING Chronomat GMT

By TLex There was a huge buzz when Breitling unveiled their first in-house calibre, the B01, which was housed in the Chronomat 01, a high-end sports model of Breitling's Windrider line. Whilst not really a diver per se, the Chronomat 01 still had a 500m depth rating and a unidirectional rotatable divers bezel.

The B01 has experienced high praise in the media, the German watch publication, Uhren Magazin gave it their top score of 6 out of 6. Breitling then in August of 2009 released one of the first ever Wristwatch Apps for the iPhone, which they created for the Chronomat 01. Last October the Chronomat 01 Limited Edition was released and for Baselworld this year the Chronomat GMT housing the B04 was duly unveiled.



THE AUTHENTIC TRAVEL CHRONOGRAPH Adjusting instantly to the time and date of the place of arrival, while maintaining a 24-hour home-time display and without losing any precision in counting the minutes, must be every traveler’s dream. A dream now come true with the new Chronomat GMT, a travel watch from Breitling boasting unprecedented user friendliness. The wearer need only pull out the crown and turn it forwards or backwards to move between timezones in an outstandingly simple manner.

Equipped with the new Breitling Caliber 04, entirely developed and produced within the company workshops, the Chronomat GMT is one of the rare chronographs to offer such a smoothly functional dual timezone system. With its exclusive design and its dial featuring subtle three-dimensional effects, it is the new benchmark for all those who want to experience high performances in all parts of the world.



AN INNOVATE MECHANISM From the famous world-time Unitime, the star of the 1950s, to the current Navitimer World models with dual timezone display, travel watches have always had a special place in the Breitling collections. A natural vocation for the favorite pilots’ brand that became “official supplier to world aviation”. Today, Breitling is returning to the forefront in this field by unveiling a new instrument distinguished by its smart and convivial operating mode.

To ensure peerless user friendliness, the firm’s watchmakers and engineers have developed a differential system – for which a patent has been duly filed – serving to disconnect the local hour hand from the gear train when changing timezone. This operation thus has no effect on the precision of the watch, nor on the performances of the chronograph.



A HIGH-PERFORMANCE CHRONOGRAPH The fact that the Chronomat GMT is such an exceptional instrument is also because it combines this extremely practical dual timezone system with a chronograph – and not just any chronograph. The brand-new Breitling Caliber 04 developed for this model is indeed derived from Breitling Caliber 01, the sturdiest, most reliable and most high-performance of all selfwinding chronograph movements, entirely designed and produced within the company workshops. It features the same original architecture and the same cutting-edge characteristics, including a column wheel, a vertical coupling clutch guaranteeing high-precision activation, and an over 70-hour power reserve – along with various innovative special characteristics such as the patented recentering device for the zero-resetting hammers.

Designed to provide maximum operational functionality and security, Caliber 04 is manufactured using a high-tech production-chain system revolutionizing traditional movement assembly processes. Breitling thereby guarantees the authentic reliability of its “instruments for professionals” on a large scale. As is the case for all the brand’s movements, this highperformance “engine” is chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), the highest token of precision.



A POWERFUL STYLE The new Chronomat GMT is based on the powerful, unique and quintessential design of Breitling’s leading model, with its imposing steel case featuring ultra-sturdy construction and water-resistant to 500 meters (1,650 ft), as well as its unidirectional rotating bezel engraved with exclusive numerals. However, its dial available in six colors with tone-on-tone or contrasting totalizers has been redesigned to give it a personality all its own. The applied hour-markers are fitted with highly original bases, inspired by Roman numerals.

This refined detail accentuates the square shape of the central gridwork-patterned central zone that stands out in subtle ways depending on how it catches the light. The triangular openworked red-tipped hand points to home time on a 24-hour graduated scale partially covered by the inner bezel – thereby giving the dial even more life and depth by playing on the third dimension.

The home-time hands and hour-markers are enhanced by a luminescent coating guaranteeing excellent readability by day and night. Entirely made in Switzerland and treated to extremely meticulous finishing, the Chronomat GMT may be teamed with a choice of various straps and bracelets offering a variety of styles and uses: the classic touch of Barenia or crocodile leather, the sporty spirit of rubber straps, and the sturdy masculine nature of the steel Pilot bracelet. A whole world of elegance and performance for the authentic travel chronograph.



PEERLESS FUNCTIONALITY The new Chronomat GMT is equipped with two central hour hands. The first matches the minute hand and runs over a 12-hour scale, while the second is tipped with a red triangle and runs in 24-hour mode. When the user is in his home country, the two hour hands move in a perfectly synchronized manner.



CHANGING TIMEZONE To adjust the 12-hour hand to local time, the user simply pulls the crown out to position 2 and turns it in either direction by the number of notches corresponding to the number of hours composing the time difference. The date display is indexed to this 12-hour hand and changes automatically if required, both backwards or forwards.

The red-tipped hand keeps track of home time on a 24-hour basis, thus enabling one to distinguish between day and night and avoiding the risk of waking family members, friends or business contacts by phoning them when they are sound asleep. And if the traveler makes stopovers in several different timezones, he need only repeat the same operation on each occasion and then, upon returning home, reset the two hands to the same time. It’s hard to imagine anything simpler!



MOVEMENT Breitling Caliber 04, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 47 jewels. Over 70-hour power reserve. 24-hour 2nd timezone display. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Calendar.

CASE Steel. Water-resistant to 500 m (1,650 ft/ 50 bars). Screw-locked crown and pushpieces. Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Diameter: 47 mm.

DIALS Onyx Black, Metallica Blue, Blackeye Blue, Blackeye Gray, Sierra Silver, Metallica Brown.

STRAPS /BRACELET Barenia leather, crocodile leather, rubber Ocean Racer (perforated), rubber Diver Pro (with raised central ridge)/ Pilot.